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| 07.02.00 Exhibits                                                          |
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Don’t spread your zookeepers too thin.  They should manage at most three 
exhibits, and only then if the animals are reasonably low maintenance.  
Exhibit quality and animal happiness drastically affect guest happiness, and 
so you not only need your zookeepers to do their job, you need them to do it 
quickly.

If you assign multiple exhibits to a zookeeper, make sure the exhibit doors 
are right next to each other so the zookeeper doesn’t have to walk far to do 
its job.

Animals only want a certain percentage of their exhibit’s grid squares to have 
foliage in them.  That means if an animal’s preferred plant only takes up one 
quarter of a grid square, you can put 1-4 plants into each square and it 
doesn’t matter to the animal.  However, it does matter to the exhibit’s 
suitability rating.  So put foliage in last, and add in enough plants to 
“tune” the exhibit to the suitability rating you want.  You can use this 
strategy to get anywhere from 90 to 100 suitability for most exhibits.

Guests can only see 10 grid squares into an exhibit, so don’t make them any 
“deeper” than that.

You can combine different types of animals into an exhibit (like all the 
Savannah herd animals), but generally you shouldn’t since different animals 
have slightly different needs, even if they’re from the same region.  And so 
if you combine animals you won’t be able to achieve a high suitability rating 
for them.  Also, most scenarios require a certain number of exhibits rather 
than a certain number of animals, and so simple exhibits are better.

If you’re building an exhibit for a water creature, don’t create “islands” of 
land away from the doorway.  The creature will poo on the islands, but the 
zookeeper won’t be able to get to it, and so the poo will never be picked up 
(unless you manually move the zookeeper around).

Animals only care how many grid squares are in their exhibit, not what shape 
the exhibit is.  So you should always make exhibits square-shaped to reduce 
the number of fence pieces you need.

If you have problems with animals escaping their exhibits (particularly in 
Dinosaur Digs), there are a couple things you can try.  You can lower the 
ground of the exhibit by two notches (using cliff mode).  Then it doesn’t 
matter what sort of fence you have, or if the fence is broken or not.  The 
animals won’t be able to escape.  (Just be sure to leave a way in and out for 
your zookeeper.)  You can also surround the exhibit with a moat, but you don’t 
have to surround it only on the outside.  You can use the animal’s freshwater 
needs to block some of the fence pieces from the inside.

Other than a few dinosaurs, you almost never want to put a single animal into 
an exhibit.  That’s a good way to get a low popularity exhibit, even if the 
animal is content to be alone.  So always pair up large animals, and put in 
four (maybe six) small animals.

You can use the zoo’s perimeter fencing for exhibits.  It’s free and it never 
breaks down.

When putting guest walkways between exhibits, leave four grid squares between 
the exhibits.  Then you can use the middle two squares for the path, and save 
the squares adjacent to the exhibits for future “observation paths,” should 
the zoo get too crowded.  That is:

                exhibit  exhibit             exhibit  exhibit
                                               obs      obs
                pathpathpathpath    leads    pathpathpathpath
                pathpathpathpath      to     pathpathpathpath
                                               obs      obs
                exhibit  exhibit             exhibit  exhibit

You can also make the path area five grid squares wide, and use the middle 
squares either for just the path, or for narrow decorative objects like lamps, 
benches, zoo maps, and so forth.